Game Console Repair
Game Console No-Power Repair
Your console is dead — no light, one beep then nothing, or a blue light that never goes white. We figure out whether it's the power supply or the board, and we fix both in-house.
A console that won't power on is one of two problems: the power supply gave out, or a power rail on the main board shorted — usually a blown MOSFET or a failed power-management IC. Most shops can only swap the obvious parts and mail the rest out. We do the board-level work here, on the bench, in Clarendon. That means we can trace the actual rail that's down, find the component that's pulling it to ground, and replace just that part — instead of telling you the whole console is toast.
When you need a no-power repair
- PS5 is completely dead, or beeps once and shuts right back off
- Blinking blue or white light of death — it powers but never fully boots
- Xbox Series X/S or Xbox One won't turn on at all (no light on the brick or board)
- Nintendo Switch or Switch 2 won't power on, won't charge, or shows no charge indicator
- Console died during a storm, power surge, or after a liquid spill
- Fans spin up for a second, then the whole system cuts out and shuts down
Honest by default
Every device starts with a $65 diagnostic and a written report — exact cost and timeline before we touch it. The fee applies toward your repair.
Cost depends on what's actually wrong. A power-supply swap is the simpler, lower-cost path. Board-level work — microsoldering a failed power IC or MOSFET, like a Switch's M92T36 or a shorted MOSFET on a PS5 or Xbox board — takes more time and skill and costs more. The $65 written diagnostic tells you which one you're dealing with up front, and it applies toward your repair if you go ahead.
Our no-power repair process
Bench power test — supply vs board
We power the console on a bench supply and watch the current draw. A dead power supply and a shorted board behave very differently. This single test tells us whether you're looking at a cheaper PSU swap or board-level work — before we ever quote you.
Trace the dead power rail
If it's on the board, we follow the schematic to the rail that's down — the APU power rail on a PS5, the charging circuit on a Switch, a MOSFET stage on an Xbox. Injecting a low voltage and watching with a thermal camera shows us exactly which component is heating up and pulling the short.
Replace the PSU or microsolder the failed part
Sometimes it really is just the power supply, and we say so and swap it. When it's the board, we microsolder the failed IC or MOSFET — the M92T36 charging IC on a Switch, a shorted MOSFET near the PS5 APU, a blown power stage on an Xbox — under a microscope with proper hot-air work.
Test under load before it leaves
We don't just confirm it powers on. We run the console under real load — games, charging, output — to make sure the rail holds up and nothing else was damaged by the same surge that took out the first part. Then it goes back to you with a written warranty.
Is it the power supply or the board?
That's the first thing we determine, and it's the difference between a simpler fix and a board-level one. We power the console on a bench supply and read the current draw — a failed PSU and a shorted board look completely different. You get a straight answer and a real quote before any work starts.
My PS5 beeps once and shuts off — what is that?
A single beep followed by an immediate shutdown almost always means a short on a power rail — frequently a blown MOSFET near the APU, often after a power surge. The console's protection circuit detects the short and refuses to fully power on. It's a board-level repair, and it's one we do in-house.
My Switch won't charge or turn on — can you fix that?
Yes. When a Switch won't charge or power on, the usual culprits are the M92T36 charging IC or the P13USB video IC — both classic Switch board failures, often triggered by a bad charger or surge. We test for shorts around those chips and microsolder a replacement. We repair original Switch, Switch Lite, OLED, and Switch 2.
Are my saves and data safe?
In a no-power repair we're working on the power circuitry, not the storage. Your game saves and data live on storage that we don't touch, so in the vast majority of these repairs everything stays exactly where it was. We'll always tell you up front if a specific case is different.
Is it worth fixing or should I just buy a new one?
Often worth fixing. A power-supply swap or a single failed IC costs far less than a new console, and a board-level repair keeps the machine — and your saves — you already own. After the diagnostic we give you an honest comparison so you can decide. If it's not worth saving, we'll tell you that too.
How long does it take and what's the warranty?
A PSU swap is usually quick; board-level microsoldering takes longer because of the precision involved. We give you a timeline with your quote. Repairs carry a written warranty — 1 year on OEM-grade work, 1 month on aftermarket parts. Walk in to our Clarendon lab or use tracked mail-in from anywhere in the 50 states.
Why bring a dead console to WeFixed
We've been doing board-level and microsoldering repair for 11 years — this is the work, not a sideline. Most shops handed a dead PS5 or a Switch that won't charge will swap the easy parts and mail the rest to someone like us. We're the lab that traces the power rail and replaces the failed MOSFET or charging IC right here in Clarendon. Honest goes both ways: if it's only the power supply, we tell you and charge you for the cheaper fix. We never upsell board work that isn't there, and we never sell your data.